About Sapa

Established as a hill station by the French in 1922, the charming highland town of Sapa is the one place in the northwest where tourism is booming.

The magnificent scenery is on a very grand scale, and the town is orientated to make the most of the spectacular views that open up on clear days. Perched on a steep slope, Sapa overlooks a plunging valley of cascading rice terraces, with mountains towering above the town on all sides.

Tantalising glimpses of the epic scenery are more common than full-frontal vistas, for the town is often wrapped in a thick mist that rolls back and forth along the peaks. But even if it’s damp and cloudy, Sapa has a lot going for it – this is an important market town for hill-tribe people, who fill the cobbled lanes with colour.

History has not always been kind to Sapa. From WWII, successive wars against the French, USA and China took their toll and the old colonial hotels were allowed to fall into disrepair.

With the advent of tourism, Sapa has experienced a renaissance. Countless new hotels and boutiques have popped up and the dining scene is now almost as cosmopolitan as that of Hanoi. The downside is a building boom that has seen one hotel after another raise the roof in a continual quest for better views. Height restrictions are rarely enforced and the Sapa skyline is changing for the worse.

Inherent in all of this prosperity is a sharp cultural change for the hill-tribe people, the future prosperity of whom has become closely tied with the tourism influx.

The H’mong people, once the poorest of the local tribes, are very canny traders, and you’ll encounter them all over town urging you to buy handicrafts and trinkets. Most have had little formal education and are illiterate, yet all the youngsters have a good command of English, French and a handful of other languages (as well as a mobile phone and an email address). Plenty of H’mong have used their language skills to good effect and work as trekking guides or in hotels and restaurants in Sapa. Other minorities like the Red Dzao are visible all over town, their billowing red headdresses a surreal sight amid the accelerating development.

If you visit Sapa off-season, don’t forget your winter woollies. Not only is it cold (0°C), but winter brings fog and drizzle. The chilly climate does have its advantages, however. The area boasts temperate-zone fruit trees bearing peaches and plums, and gardens for raising medicinal herbs.

The dry season in Sapa lasts from around January to June. January and February are the coldest (and foggiest) months. From March to May the weather is often excellent, and the summer is warm despite the rains between June and August. The window from September to mid-December is a rewarding time to be in Sapa, though there is a bit of lingering rain at the start and the temperature dips by December.

If possible, try to visit during the week, when Sapa is less crowded and more intimate. Crowds flock to Sapa for the Saturday market, but a smaller market is held every day. There is plenty to see on weekdays, and there are lots of interesting villages within walking distance of the centre.

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Train To Sapa infomation

Though many people visit Sa Pa on an organized tour from Hanoi, the town is well set up for independent travel.

The most popular route is by train to Lao Cai, and then the connecting tourist bus (40,000đ) up to Sa Pa; while the night train saves on both time and accommodation, a daylight journey gives great views along the Red River Valley. The tourist buses drop off on Cau May, Sa Pa’s main street.

Heading back to Lao Cai, local buses (also 40,000đ) leave from various points, including Cau May and the church. Guesthouse owners can also often arrange a pick-up, organize jeeps for small groups back to Lao Cai and book train tickets; note that hard sleeper and soft seat tickets on the night train are often in short supply at Lao Cai, so to be sure of a place book in advance in Sa Pa. Several private operators now attach luxury carriages onto the Hanoi–Sa Pa night trains, including the Victoria Express, reserved for guests at the Victoria Sapa Hotel (see “Accommodation”), and the Pumpkin Train (www.et-pumpkin.com), and the Fanxipan Express, which can both be booked through Hanoi travel agents.

Though there’s a dedicated tourist information office (daily 7.30–11.30am & 1.30–5pm) at the top of Cao May, Sa Pa’s guesthouses remain the best source of advice on visiting minority villages; guides are available for around $15–20 per day. Trips offered by Topas Travel at 24 Muong Hoa (020/387 1331, www.topas-adventure-vietnam.com) and Handspan Adventure Travel in Hanoi (04/3926 2828, www.handspan.com) are safe and popular, though fierce competition means that you’ll find far lower prices if you shop around. The tourist office sells detailed walking maps of the area, though most agencies hand out their own versions for free.

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Sapa Town

Sa Pa itself is ethnically Vietnamese, but its shops and market serve the minority villages for miles around. What initially attracted visitors was the weekend market, which runs from Friday to Sunday.

These days it’s housed in a concrete eyesore, a far cry from the original Saturday “love market” where the local ethnic minorities would come to court their sweethearts. The love market has now moved on elsewhere, a result of too many intrusive camera flashes and voyeuristic tourists, though plenty of minority people still turn up to peddle ethnic-style bags and shirts to trekkers. More authentic market fairs can be found on the other side of the Red River at Can Cau (Sat) and Bac Ha (Sun; see “Arrival and information”).

The weekends are still bright and lively in Sa Pa, though, with the women coming dressed in their finery – the most eye-catching are the Red Dao, who wear scarlet headdresses festooned with woollen tassels and silver trinkets. Black Hmong are the most numerous group – over a third of the district’s population – and the most commercially minded, peddling their embroidered indigo-blue waistcoats, bags, hats and heavy, silver jewellery at all hours.

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Sapa Mount Fan Si Pan

Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Si Pan (3143m) lies less than 5km as the crow flies from Sa Pa, but it’s an arduous three- to five-day round trip on foot.
The usual route starts by descending 300m to cross the Muong Hoa River, and then climbs almost 2000m on overgrown paths through pine forest and bamboo thickets, before emerging on the southern ridge. The reward is a panorama encompassing the mountain ranges of northwest Vietnam, south to Son La Province and north to the peaks of Yunnan in China.

Although it’s a hard climb, the most difficult aspect of Fan Si Pan is its climate: even in the most favourable months of November and December it’s difficult to predict a stretch of settled clear weather and many people are forced back by cloud, rain and cold. A guide is essential to trace indistinct paths, hack through bamboo and locate water sources; Hmong guides are said to know the mountain best. Sa Pa hotels and tour agents can arrange guides and porters as required.

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Eating & Drinking Recommend

Sa Pa has the widest range of food in the north outside Hanoi; one benefit of the building boom is that there is plenty of choice, many serving a mixture of local cuisine and foreign dishes.

 

To go where the locals are, try the series of street stalls along Pham Xuan Huan, parallel to Cau May, that serve pho and rice; some stay open late into the night, when the focus shifts to barbequed meat and rice wine. For nightlife, the Red Dragon serves beer and cocktails, or you can shoot some pool at the Tua Bar on Dong Loi.

 

Auberge Muong Hoa. Popular restaurant with a great terrace area that serves cheap and decent Vietnamese fare or local interpretations of Western dishes. A good place to mingle with other travellers.

 

Baguettes et Chocolat Thac Bac. Part of a chain that trains disadvantaged children in hospitality; it offers excellent pastries and, as the name suggests, filling baguettes and chocolate sweets, in a comfortable colonial setting. It also sells custom-made hampers to take on your trekking journey.

 

Chapa Garden Pham Xuan Huan. This secluded, Norwegian-run restaurant with delectable cuisine (mains from 120,000đ), fine wine and a crackling fireplace has something of an Alpine atmosphere. The friendly staff are all Black Hmong, and there’s always a local choice among the Western items on the menu.

 

Delta Cau May. With a prime location and a good wine list, the Delta is better known for its pizzas than its pasta, but is still a popular place for late-night diners.

 

The Gecko Ham Rong. Well-designed, French-run venue; the dishes are pricey but their originality – clay pot with caramelised fish, for example – makes them a welcome relief from Sa Pa’s usual Viet-Western fare. Opposite, its sister restaurant, the tiny Petit Gecko, is slightly cheaper and styled like a Black Hmong house, but serves similar fare.

 

Le Pho Pham Xuan Huan. Slurp down Sa Pa’s best pho in a pleasant, orange-trimmed setting; 32,000đ may seem a steep price for this simple dish, but cardamom and aniseed are among the more adventurous ingredients thrown into the mix.

 

Mountain View Cau May. One of the most scenic spots in Sa Pa, the outdoor area is the perfect place to sample traditional north Vietnamese fare and look out over the valley. The huge Lao Cai beers they sell also make it a jovial choice for when the sun has set.

 

Nature View Fan Si Pan. You could pay for the views alone and still feel that you’d got value for money; throw in a selection of reasonably-priced Vietnamese and Western dishes and it’s a good deal. Pizzas, however, are better at Viet Phap Y across the road.

 

Red Dao House Thac Bac. Too twee for some but there’s a certain kitsch appeal to this large and slightly pricey restaurant; the menu has plenty of authentic Sa Pa cuisine, and as the name suggests, staff are all Red Dao.

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Sapa Hotels Recommend

 

Despite the glut of guesthouses and hotels in Sa Pa, rooms can still be in short supply in the summer months, pushing up prices by as much as fifty percent.

 

Prices also go up at weekends from September to November, when the streets are busy with foreigners, but there are usually enough beds to go round. Since weekend hotel prices are higher and the town crawling with tourists, it’s worth considering a midweek visit. Needless to say, rooms with views command higher prices. Foreigners can also now stay in many of Sa Pa’s surrounding minority villages; guesthouses and travel agencies can help with arrangements.

Baguettes et Chocolat Thac Bac 020/387 1766, hoasuaschoolsp@hn.vnn.vn. Run by the Hoa Sua School for disadvantaged youth, this is a quiet and comfy place that looks over the town. It has only two twins and two doubles, but the delightful decor and friendly service make it popular. The price includes breakfast in the fantastic ground-floor café. US$11–20

Bamboo Sa Pa Muong Hoa 020/387 1075, bamboosapa@hn.vnn.vn. Some of the smartest rooms in town, with excellent views, bathtubs and fake fireplaces. Minority shows in the large restaurant at weekends. US$31–50

Casablanca Hotel Dong Loi 020/387 2667,guesthousecasablancasapahotel@gmail.com. By far the best value of Sa Pa’s growing army of boutique hotels, with gorgeously decorated rooms – all with satellite TV – and a friendly, on-the-ball owner. US$21–30

Cat Cat View Cat Cat Rd
020/387 1946, www.catcathotel.com. One of the town’s longest-standing mini-hotels, Cat Cat has a building on each side of the road and a huge variety of rooms, some with fantastic panoramic views across to Mount Fan Si Pan. Popular with budget travellers who socialize on the communal balconies. US$10 and under–50

Chau Long 24 Dong Loi
020/387 1245, www.chaulonghotel.com.vn. Small but smart rooms, all with bathtubs, in this attractive building. Opposite, the pricier four-star wing has excellent facilities and better views. US$31–75

Friendly Hotel 11 Muong Hoa 020/387 3689. The best budget choice in town has amiable service, fantastic views from some upper-floor rooms, and bedding that puts many of the big boys to shame. Breakfast, however, is poor value for money – head elsewhere. US$10 and under

Mountain View 52 Cau May 020/387 1334. A popular choice, with bright, clean, comfy rooms, and good vistas. Its outdoor restaurant (see “Eating and drinking”) is a great place to watch the sun go down. Slightly cheaper, but slightly shabbier, is the Royal, a sister hotel across the road. US$10 and under–30

 

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Hanoi city centre

Hoan Kiem Lake

Hanoi city centre comprises a compact area known as Hoan Kiem District, which is neatly bordered by the Red River embankment in the east and by the rail line to the north and west, while its southern extent is marked by the roads Nguyen Du, Le Van Huu and Han Thuyen.The district takes its name from its present-day hub and most obvious point of reference, Hoan Kiem Lake, which lies between the cramped and endlessly diverting Old Quarter in the north, and the tree-lined boulevards of the French Quarter, arranged in a rough grid system, to the south.

West of this central district, across the rail tracks, some of Hanoi‘s most impressive monuments occupy the wide open spaces of the former Imperial City, grouped around Ho Chi Minh‘s Mausoleum on Ba Dinh Square and extending south to the ancient walled gardens of the Temple of Literature. A vast body of water confusingly called West Lake sits north of the city, harbouring a number of interesting temples and pagodas, but the attractive villages that once surrounded it have now largely given way to upmarket residential areas and a smattering of luxury hotels.

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